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Their sticky, gooey texture is achieved, traditionally, by pounding the rice flour dough with huge mallets, before rolling, chopping and sprinkling it with ground nuts. We’ve loved almost everything we’ve eaten so far, but decide you probably have to be born to it to rave about this texture, between Blu Tack and wallpaper paste, but less appealing than either. Much more enticing is the quintessential Korean dish kimchi, which we also have a go at in Jeonju. There are kimchi factories these days of course, but many people still make it by hand in autumn, to ferment in jars buried in the cold ground for winter eating. Hanok village, on the edge of Jeonju. Photograph: Seungchan Lee/Getty Images In a sunny courtyard in the traditional Hanok village district, on the edge of Jeonju, the napa cabbages (what we call Chinese leaves) have been soaking in brine. Pulling on gloves and pinnies (against red stains) we copy our hosts and gently peel back the pale leaves – without detaching them from the stems – and massage each side with a paste made by pounding garlic, shallot and ginger with copious gochujang. Once every surface of every leaf is covered – inexpert tourist fingers are fumbling and slow – the leaves are folded back till the finished cabbages lie like so many swaddled babies. I taste a bit of broken leaf and it’s delicious, but without that deep fermented flavour of aged kimchi. There are many more delights packed into the week.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2018/feb/09/south-korea-food-drink-tour-seoul-busan-jeonju
By Plane, Train, Or Boat: Best Travel Tips
Travel is an adventure, especially with proper planning and the right attitude. It does come with potential setbacks that can cause things to go awry, so it's very important you plan carefully. The following tips will help you begin to prepare.
One you know where you are going, learn about it. Find a map of the country or city that you are visiting. The more you know about the environment, the easier it will be to get around when you are there.
Plan your trip months ahead of time. With so many physical memories available for purchase when you travel one fact is always true. The sooner you buy them, the cheaper they will be. Minimizing last-minute expenses can help your trip stretch further.
As you plan your vacation, try and be open minded about the destination. Although returning to a favorite place is always nice, it might be even better to discover something new and more memorable. If you don't have a lot of money to spend, broadening your options when it comes to the location can be beneficial.
Pick the proper camera for your trip. If you want to go backpacking, you'll want to pack a rechargeable battery. Choose one that turns on quickly so you never miss a shot.
Check your alarm clock in your room after you arrive at your hotel. You never know what the person who was staying there last might have had it set to. Turn off the alarm or set it to the time you want it on.
Be sure a loved one has access to the itinerary of your trip. This will ensure that someone knows where you are. Stay in touch with that contact to maximize your own safety. If they are aware of your location and communicate with you often, your family and friends will not worry.
When you travel abroad, find out from your credit card company what type of travel insurance you already have. For example, they may already cover cancelled flights which are purchased with the credit card. Having insurance can protect you from problems that may arise before or during your trip.
A motorcycle can provide great transportation for day trips, but only if the driver has a motorcycle license. Motorcycles offer a fun way to enjoy a scenic ride without using a ton of gas. It's exciting to travel by motorcycle.
Sleeping pills can get you through a red-eye flight. For many people, sleeping on a plane is almost impossible, between the uncomfortable seats and the noise level. Take a sleep aid to help yourself get through a long flight much simpler. You should take the pill after the plane is actually in the air.
You will want to cash your traveler's checks prior to going anywhere to eat or shop. Traveler's checks can be a pain to work with. You may find that you will get shorted by using them, so convert them to local money before you shop.
If you understand local currency value before you make the trip, then you'll be able to budget your funds much easier. You will know how much you are able to spend and even save money. This will help reduce the risk of over-spending, while still ensuring you budget enough money to have a good time.
When you will be traveling someplace that requires a rental car, make certain to look at your own car insurance before going. Rental car staff is trained to sell additional insurance, and you might not need it. In many cases, insurance policies on vehicles also include basic coverage in the case of a third party liability. So it is important to check with your auto insurance company before beginning purchasing an additional policy.
Traveling can be vital to the lives of many individuals. Some forethought and research will usually enhance your trip. If you are about to head out on a trip, you can use the tips in this piece to have the best possible experience.
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Since Korean babies are considered one year old at birth, I had technically aged a year just by arriving in the country. Eating tteokguk on Seollal would make me two years older than I’d have been in, say, London or New York City. The link between tteokguk and Seollal was first recorded in the mid-1800s in a book of Korean customs called the Dongguk Sesigi. But as far as I could determine, the original connection between this soup and growing older was a mystery – on any other day of the year, a bowl of tteokguk is nothing more than a good lunch. Dr Yoon thought the tradition was probably much older than the Dongguk Sesigi record; rice cake alone has been a staple of Korean cuisine for more than 2,000 years. View image of Dr Yoon: “The long rope is for longevity. The slices are shaped like coins for wealth. And the white colour represents purity” (Credit: Credit: Samuel Bergstrom) “The process of making tteokguk is simple,” Dr Yoon said, gesturing to our sparse ingredient list. “But making the rice cake is not.” Exhibits at the Institute’s Tteok Museum showed the task was historically difficult and, by necessity, communal. Men and women took turns wielding heavy stone hammers or wooden tools to pound glutinous rice flour and water into dough.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20180219-in-south-korea-age-is-measured-in-bowls-of-soup
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